and lovely to talk to. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. I mean look how they photographed those models. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. Free shipping for many products! Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. So should be here for the long term. The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? Pinterest. The prices are comparable. I am debating a single or double breasted suit in dark navy for my wedding. Do you see any difference between Sian and John in terms of their eye and pattern and fitting quality (from what Ive read on the website, Sian seems to have a more modern style compared to John)? Would W&S be a good option. After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. Impressive finish, congratulations! Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. Do you know anything about her? in the style breakdown series. hi Simon, very interesting article. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. Very best. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? Thanks for your time, JK. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. Thanks! Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? It almost feels like cheating. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Thanks I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. Interesting point. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. One of your best suits in my opinion! Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. Like this article? The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Thank you very much for your assistance. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. Thank you in advance. Hi Jon, This is great to know. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. Hi Simon. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. Coats Read More What am I missing? And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. Here is a simple way to think about it. which is better in your opinion? Your website is an amazing read. I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. 1. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. This looks perfect! Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. Simon. Youd wear any existing suits, then gradually swap in the better ones as you buy them. The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. i.e. Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. Yes I would. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? Just an idea. Hi Simon. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. That pocket square fold is on point. The little things are not decisive, they decide everything, said the popular actor Harvey Read More, A Detailed Guide to Savile Row suit for Men The company with more than 200 years of history began as a uniform company for the military. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. No, the style is different in other ways too. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. More than Poole, but less than A&S. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. Simon. Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. thanks! Apparel & clothing. Outstanding blog, Simon. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. We specialise in handcrafted bespoke suits that are constructed from the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. Firstly, the armhole is quite low and it is restrictive (I compare this to a subsequent bespoke suit I had made by Ciardi). This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Hi Stephen, how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. That makes more sense. This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. Apologies if this is an obvious question. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. Thanks for advice. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. Photography: Jack Lawson. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Thanks Simon. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. 192 following. From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. Wonderful site! Couldnt have been more pleased with it! I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. Dear Simon, The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. Very happy with her. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? Yes, Edward is more dramatic and youll find the drape style more comfortable during the day at work too. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. Another question Simon. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Thanks!! Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. Im sure you have more ideas for content than you can possibly cover, so just a couple of suggestions! For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Hi Simon. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. Watch. Great thank you very much! Thanks! Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. Hi Salvatore, Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. P.S. There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. If the later, have you seen any examples? Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? My worry for a business like W&S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a bargain. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? 829 posts. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. I always try and relax and dont rush my fittings. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? It sounds like you want something more structured. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. Interesting article. Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. This is slightly out of my budget. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. Includes access to the digital magazine. I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too.
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whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke